There are two ways to prepare for Dye Day, depending on what you want to get out of the day.

The first way is to come with several small samples (less than an ounce or an 8” X 8” piece) of a natural material like linen, cotton, wool, silk, etc. The material needs to be damp (soak it overnight and bring it in a baggie to keep it wet is a good plan) in order to take the dye evenly. I will have the dye pots set up with the necessary items (mordants) to allow the dye to adhere to the fiber. This will allow you the chance to begin playing with natural dyes and get a beginner’s understanding of how it all works.

Please make note that plant based fibers will not take up the dye as strongly as the protein fibers with this process. Plant fibers like linen and cotton need a special mordanting process to allow it to take up stronger colors. The one exception to this is soy silk. It takes up dye as well as protein fibers and, even though it is made of soybeans, it is treated like a protein fiber for dyeing purposes. If you are bringing unspun fiber, please place it in a container like old pantyhose or a mesh bag before placing it in the dye pot. Otherwise we will have an unholy mess to deal with. Also, use a water-proof label such as masking tape (not drafting tape) and a Sharpie to mark your material as your own. You might also consider numbering each and keep track of the pot you are putting it in for future reference.

DO NOT place unwashed fiber or yarns still in the spinning oil in the dye pots. The oils will contaminate the dye pot and can ruin it.

For those of you who want to see how many colors you can get out of a pot and are willing to go through a little preparation prior to dye day, you can use the following recipes to prepare your fiber. Please remember to use a non-reactive pot such as stainless steel or unchipped enamel. THESE POTS MAY NEVER BE USED FOR COOKING EVER AGAIN.

Please do not eat or drink while working with mordants, and keep these and all chemicals away from children and pets. Also, please wear rubber gloves and a dust mask while doing the mordanting process. Remember, it is always better to err on the side of caution.

For protein fibers such as wool and silk – each recipe if for 100 grams of fiber:

Alum Mordant:
18 grams of alum (Potassium Aluminum Sulfate)
6.25 grams Cream of Tarter
1.25 gallons distilled or rain water

Bring water with dissolved mordants and fiber slowly to boil over an hour. Simmer gently for an hour and allow fiber to cool in the pot. Stir gently to make sure it is even. Can be used immediately, kept damp in a plastic bag for a few days or drien for future use. This actually works best if allowed to “cure” for a few weeks after allowing it to dry.

Tin Mordant (Stannous Chloride or Stannic Chloride) – Please use dust mask and gloves while preparing this mordant – Toxic – Keep away from small children and pets.

3 – 4 grams tin
3 – 4 grams Cream of Tarter
1 – 1.5 gallons distilled or rain water

Dissolve tin in a small quantity of water. Dissolve cream of tarter in small quantity of boiling water. Add cream of tarter to cold water first, then add the tin. Add wet wool once water has reached 140 degrees. Raise temperature to 190 degrees and hold for one hour. DO NOT BOIL! Let wool cool in the pot. Rinse wool with a little soapy water (Dawn dish detergent or Synthopol), then rinse clear.
Copper (Copper Sulfate)

2 grams Copper Sulfate (also called Blue Vitriol)
100 ml white vinegar
1.5 gallon distilled or rain water

Soak wool in lukewarm water for at leat 15 minutes. Dissolve copper sulfate n small quantity boiling water. Add to water, then add the vinegar. Add wool and slowly bring temperature up to 190 degrees (in about a half hour). Simmer one hour. Let cool in pot. Rinse and dry.
Iron (Ferrous Sulfate)

1.5 grams iron (also called copperas)
1.5 gallon distilled or rain water

Add iron to water and let dissolve. Add wool. Slowly bring temperature up to 190 degrees and hold there one hour. Let cool in pot. Rinse and dry.

For plant fibers such as cotton and linen – Recipe is for 1 pound of fiber – please adjust as needed:
The most common mordanting process for cellulose fibers is a three-step one called the Alum-Tannin-Alum mordant. It takes three days to complete, so please keep this in mind.

Step 1 – Alum (Potassium Aluminum Sulfate)

Dissolve 8 ounces of alum in 2 to 3 quarts of hot water. When solution is cool, dissolve 1 ounce (5 level teaspoons) of washing soda in 1 pint of water. Add the soda solution slowly to the alum solution with stirring. There will be a large release of bubbles (carbon dioxide gas – just like from bottles of soda pop). The mordant may be used as soon as the gas evolution ceases.

Dilute with enough room temperature water to cover fiber (3 – 5 gallons). All material and work for several minutes. Sink the material below the surface and allow it to stay there about 24 hours.

Step 2 – Tannin (Tannic Acid)

Dissolve .5 ounce (for light colors) to 1.5 ounces (for dark colors) of tannic acid in 4 – 6 gallons of hot water. Place the alum mordanted fiber into the pot and work for a few minutes (remember to wear rubber gloves), then sink the fiber below the surface and steep for about 24 hours. Do not heat the bath again. Remove and rinse.

Step 3 – Alum (please repeat Step 1)

Again, please use very small samples. These supplies can be purchased from Nancy at Sheep Street in Morgantown or from Earth Guild at www.earthguild.com.
Please remember to do this premordanting away from food, drink or children, and pots, measuring cups and spoons or any other piece of equipment used in mordanting or dyeing can no longer be used in the preparation of food or drink. Mark it for dyeing only and do not store in the kitchen or where you store food cooking equipment. Also, to be safe, do not eat or drink while mordanting or dyeing to protect yourself from cross-contamination and wear protective gear such as rubber gloves, an apron, a face mask and protective eye wear. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.

I use masking tape as labels for my premordanted fiber and write my info on it with a Sharpie permanent pen. I tend to put my initials on one side of the label and a code telling me what mordant is used (i.e. AL for Alum, TI for Tin, etc.) and a number for the pot it is placed in (i.e. 1 for cochineal, 2 for walnut, etc.) on the other side. Another way to easily find your fiber in a pot full of fiber is to tie something on it to distinguish it from the others. Glass, wooden or bone beads work well. The wooden and bone beads take up color as well, so it can be a bonus for you. Please refrain from anything metal as it will become very hot and can burn you, or anything plastic because it can melt.