Several years ago, I had the opportunity to volunteer to make costumes for the 1836 area of Conner Prairie.  These clothes were hand-sewn on the areas that could be seen, and I really enjoyed this type of work.  The patterns used were taken from vintage clothes of that era that were on loan to the museum by Tasha Tudor. 

During this short, two-year stint making these costumes that were to be worn by the interpreters, I learned a lot about how vintage clothing was assembled and worn.  My triumph while there was making a corded petticoat with 25 yards of cording.  These petticoats were the precursor to the hoop skirts and crinolines that were to reach their height (width) during the 1860’s. 

The petticoat was entirely hand sewn and even traveled to one of the comic book conventions in Chicago where I sat behind the table, sewing away, and explaining to people what I was making.  It was the interest in this project, and the draw it had on the people there, that eventually lead me to sit behind the table with a spinning wheel, keeping my hands busy and pulling people in for a better look – and to buy comics.  This petticoat, I understand, is still referred to as “the petticoat” at Conner Prairie. 

Also, I made one dress for the 1876 schoolhouse for the schoolmarm to wear.  You can imagine my glee and pride when I visited Conner Prairie soon thereafter and in the schoolhouse was the teacher wearing the dress I had made.  Luckily, by this time sewing machines had been invented, so I made it on my sewing machine.

Where am I going with this?  Well, this past weekend while I was at Kristy’s, she showed me a pattern from her husband’s great-great-grandmother.  The pattern was like nothing I had ever seen before and I took several pictures of it to show to you.  It was almost (but not quite) enough to get me back into making vintage costumes again. 

The paper the pattern was printed on was very thick – thicker than card stock, but not as thick as cardboard.  Obviously it was meant to last through several dresses and the adjustability of the patterns meant it could be used for the entire family of adult women.  In fact, there was a sheet with the names of several women, including the owner of the pattern, and their measurements.  Fascinating!

I started with the sleeve.  Since this dress was in the same style as the 1870’s dress I had made for Conner Prairie, it immediately brought back memories of making that dress.  The sleeve is curved toward the inside seam which means that while wearing it the arm cannot be fully straightened out.  Also, the sleeve was fitted very tightly.

See the small holes?  These were used to mark cutting lines, dart lines, and other fitting lines.  With this many options, these dresses could be form fitted to the person much more easily than we do today.

Now, let’s go to the bodice front.  Again, there were lots of darts to be sewn in to fit the corseted body snugly.

The same with the back of the bodice.  And look at how tiny the waist is!  When I was a docent with the Morris Butler House in Indianapolis back in the late 1980’s, there was a dress (and I assume it is still there) that had an 11 inch waist.  At that time I weighed about 120 pounds, and my neck was 11 inches around.  I used my neck as a visual at how tiny the dress’ waist was and then reminded people that there would have been a corset, corset cover and chemise under that!

This piece was referred to as the Skirt and Dart Rule and was used to measure out the fabric for the skirt of the dress.  I didn’t get to look more closely at this piece, and I think I will ask if I can study the pattern even more.  The dress pattern I had used for Conner Prairie had a skirt pattern, so I’m not sure how this piece was used.  More study is needed on my part.

The following are several of the written areas on the patterns.  They are a bit blurry, but if you go slowly you can make out the words. 

And this was on the bodice front.  The Climax System.  I would love to know more about the history of these patterns and the creators of it. 

Anyway, I thought you would love to see this wonderful old dress pattern.  If I were a woman of leisure (HA!), I might be tempted into recreating this dress.

Today, Scott and I drove out to Huddleston House to pick up our canopies, the little loom and my grill (it was too hot to bring home on Tuesday, and the rest was left for their use the rest of the week).

I asked Karen how it went and she had nothing but positive, glowing terms for the whole week of camp for the kids.  They were introduced to llamas, thanks to Mike Hoopengardner, they learned how to knit, spin on drop spindles and make bread on the hearth.

One young lady took to the knitting so well, that she was thrilled to death to learn that she could take her knitting needles and yarn home with her.  In fact, she went home and taught her little sister how to knit.  I told Karen to feel free to send some extra balls of yarn home with the kids if they wanted it.  Anything to encourage them to continue knitting.

The same young lady couldn’t wait to get her spinning off of the spindle so she could weave it into the cloth on the loom.  Karen said the girl would like that part of it to keep, so I’ll be cutting it off and mailing it to her.  Also, I’m going to invite her, her sisters and their mom to join us on BASK night.

One thing I have come to love about working with kids (and, mind you, this is my first attempt) is their lack of inhibitors.  You show them how to work a loom, hand them a stick shuttle with yarn on it, point out other yarns they can play with and turn them loose.  We adults want patterns so we can “make something.”  Well, kids do not need patterns to make something.  They just create.

And what they created was 4 feet of something that is fun, remarkable and very interesting.  You can see where they followed what I had showed them about twills, tabby and basket weave, and you can see where they left the well-trodden track and made their own paths.

Would we have woven something like this and considered it a success?  Most likely not, but this, my friends, is truly a successful thing.  I’m thinking that we adults care too much for perfection in the eyes of the world, and I know I am going to take away a lesson taught to me by these wonderful children.  Play, experiment, be freer in my creativity, and I might create something beautiful.

By the way, the young lady who wants the part with her handspun in it?  Hers is the lime green portion.

Today we did the natural dye demonstration at the Huddleston House in Cambridge City, Indiana.  We woke up to glorious sunshine and cool temps.

Before I go any further, I want to take this time to introduce you to my two helpers for the day.

On the left is Ann Rockwell, a weaving student from my March class, and someone who has become a friend.  Ann is fun, smart, enthusiastic and a hard worker.  She and Scott (on the right if you couldn’t tell), worked hard helping me get the fires started and the dye pots going.  Also, Ann helped one of our campers who was in a wheel chair and couldn’t get too close to the fire.  Thank you, Ann!  You made the day so much easier with all your hard work.

I had taken 10 sets of yarn to dye as well as a book with terminology, information on the three dyes we were using today (indigo, cochineal and Osage orange), and a bibliography.

While the yarn was in the pots, Karen Trent, the manager of Huddleston House wrapped bananas with the skin split open and marshmallows and Hershey’s kisses stuck inside into aluminum foil to bake over the fire until done.  Those were wonderful and we have decided we will have to do them again at Dye Day in October.

I took several items I had either dyed or made from dyed yarns…

…as well as binders full of sample cards from dye days and other dyeing experiments from the past 10 years.  I could have taken so much more, but this worked for today’s event.

And the kids got beautiful colors!

Karen had wanted them to be able to weave, too, so I warped my little Nilus loom (and all this time I thought I had a Dorothy!) and showed the kids how to work the loom.

Then I stood back and let them go with it.  I found it very encouraging at how often over the course of the day one or more would go back to it and weave on it.

I know that one of these kids will be in my November weaving class if not a couple more.  I found that working with kids is really easy.  They don’t need a lot of instruction and are game to try their hands at anything.  They asked a few questions, but for the most part, they pushed levers, raised and lowered shafts and watched how the weft yarn went in and out of the shed. Also, they are much more likely than adults to experiment with patterns and were less concerned about what their weaving looked like as they were about having fun with color, textures and pattern.

I left the loom there for the week and I can hardly wait to see what it looks like when we remove the fabric from the loom this Saturday.

During times of waiting for the dyepots to do their thing, there were many stories, lots of area histories, family histories and tales of experiences being told.  I am a true lover of history and I was fascinated at some of the stories I heard today.

We ended the day around 3:00 this afternoon, said good-bye to the kids, gave and received hugs all the way around, loaded up the car and left.  The day was fun and educational, and I’d do it again anytime I’m asked.  If just one of these kids take up the fiber craft (and I know one young lady, Sarah, already spins and is taking my weaving class), or looks back on this day when they are adults, remembers the fun they had and starts weaving or knitting or felting or spinning, then I will be happy.

Last, but not least, I wanted to show you one of my favorite tools that played a huge part in my getting the yarn samples ready for today.  This is a click, or clock, reel.  Scott found it at an antique mall here in Indianapolis a few years ago.  It was in complete working condition and only needed a bit of cleaning up.  And we only paid $65 for it.  I love this reel and use it to wind off my handspun yarns when I am done plying it.

And, I know I haven’t gotten any further with my studio set up, but with with today behind me now, I can start concentrating on getting my room set up and ready to use.

Today, Scott and I went out to the Huddleston House to set up the fire pit area and two of the tents for the Natural Dye demonstration being held there on Tuesday.  We could not have asked for a more beautiful day.  See?

Just look at that sky!  This cupola was on the bank barn and I love cupolas.

The back side of Huddleston House.  There is a very calm feeling about this old house, although, in its day, it was a humming hub for travelers.  It was built in 1841 and was a tavern on the Old National Road.  It served the purpose of giving people a place to change horses, get a meal and spend the night if needed.

I am assuming this was caused by the wind, but there is real character in this tree.  Either that or it is taking a bow for us.

This wee stack of half-grown acorns looked like a pile of fairy hats to me.

The bees were out in force today, although they were more the bumble variety than the honey ones.  I have seen a few honey bees this summer in my own yard that happens to be mostly white clover.  I have missed them and hope this is a sign they are making a come back in our area.

And while I welcome bees of all types, I do not welcome the other critter in this shot.  Go away, stupid Japanese Beetle!!!  Hey, there, Bumble Bee, look behind you!  Go and sting the beetle to death, please!

While the three of us adults and two teenagers were sitting around taking a rest break, a little lizard came out from under the porch to sun himself.  We three adults were going bonkers over him,  and Scott snuck off to get his camera while Karen Trent, the manager of Huddleston House, and I kept an eye on where the lizard scuttled off to while Scott was gone.  Scott took several pictures of him from the side, then handed the camera up to me so I could get some from the top.  We admired his coppery-bronzy shimmer and his tail went from green to turquoise to blue and then to purple at the tip.  Lovely with the sun bouncing off of him.  And could he move!!

The funny part about this little guy is that the three adults acted like little kids over him and telling stories about hunting lizards and salamanders as children -  and the two teenaged girls just could not care less.